Food is a question of taste as the saying goes: «One man's meat is another man's poison». Don't expect the food in Kyrgyzstan to be the highlight of your trip but that does not mean that you have landed up in a culinary wasteland!
Kyrgyzstan stood on the crossroads of the Silk Road, and the caravan
routes which crossed the territory carried not only goods for trade, but
also brought examples of various cultures: Turkish, Persian, Arabian, Indian,
Chinese, Russian, and European and these mingled with the culture and traditions
of Central Asia. As a result Kyrgyz cuisine has absorbed elements from
all of the cultures with which it came into contact, and although many
dishes that you will find are common throughout Central Asia, it is still
possible to find examples that have preserved their original, national
identity. In many areas, such as Bishkek, Russian cuisine is common, but
it is now possible to find examples from all over the world, including
the all embracing «European», Indian, Korean, Turkish and Chinese.
Outside the cities local dishes, (such as Kyrgyz, Uzbek and Dungan) are
more common.
It is said that the food in Central Asia falls into three different
types: the subsistence diet of the once nomadic peoples such as the Kyrgyz
(mainly meat, milk products and bread); the diet of settled Turkish peoples
(the Uzbeks and Uigurs) including pilafs, kebabs, noodles and pasta, stews
and elaborate pastries and breads; and dishes which come from the South
(Iran, India, Pakistan and China) with more seasoning and herbs.
In Kyrgyz culture many dishes used to have special, ritual importance,
and be connected with particular calendar holidays. Although these dishes
are of great interest, unfortunately, many of them are being forgotten,
and have fallen into disuse whilst some, which formerly had ritual contents,
have lost their initial meaning and are progressively turning into every-day
dishes.
Meat is central to Kyrgyz cooking the nomadic way of life did not
allow for the growing of fruit and vegetables which means that vegetarian
visitors may find it difficult to find dishes that meet their needs.
Traditionally the Kyrgyz are a very hospitable people. If a Kyrgyz
family invites you for a meal then you should take a small gift nothing
lavish, for example fruit or flowers. Take your shoes off when entering
the house. Picnics, especially, are served on a dastorkon, (a large cloth
laid out on the ground around which the gathering sits with your feet
either to your side or away from the dastorkon), but don«t be surprised
if this happens indoors as well. Handle the food only with your right hand.
At the end of the meal bring your two hands up to the face and drag them
down as if washing the face and recite the word "omin" the Muslim equivalent
of "amen". In many homes, (unless strict Muslim ones) eating will also
involve drinking. Alcohol will be served and you will be expected to drink.
Dont think that you can drink just a little once started it can be difficult
to decline further rounds especially as drinks are often associated with
toasts. It may be better to decide on complete abstinence (on religious
or health grounds, for instance) than suffer the consequences of excessive
hospitality later on.
One of the most essential features of Kyrgyz cuisine is that dishes
should preserve their taste and appearance. For example, there are almost
no dishes comprising puree, minced, or chopped meat, (although there are
a few exceptions.) Also, Kyrgyz dishes tend to have a plain taste; sauces
and spices are used in only small batches. Sauces are intended only to
bring out the taste of the dish not to change it.
Some dishes
Beshbarmak Perhaps the most typical Kyrgyz dish. The dish
is meant to be eaten with the hands, not with a knife and fork! «Besh»
means five, and «barmak», finger. Beshbarmak is served when
guests arrive and at almost any festive gathering. This meal consists of
noodles, which are mixed with boiled meat cut into tiny pieces and served
with a medium spicy sauce. Bouillon is then poured over the mixture.
Shashlyk or Kebabs meat cubes on skewers cooked over the
embers of burning twigs. Mutton is the meat usually used, but it is possible
to find beef, chicken, liver and even pork shashlyk. The meat may simply
be freshly sliced or may have been marinated overnight. Be warned, if the
meat is mutton, then almost certainly one of the pieces on the skewer will
be pure fat
the dripping fat onto the burning embers is thought to enhance
the taste). Shashlyk is usually served with a sprinkling of raw onion,
vinegar and lepeshki.
Plov (really an Uzbek dish) rice mixed with boiled, or fried
meat, onions and carrots (and sometimes other ingredients such as raisins),
all cooked in a semi-hemispherical metal bowl called a kazan over a fire.
Lagman (another Uzbek dish) flat noodles cooked in a stew
of tiny pieces of mutton, potatoes, carrots, onions and white radishes.
A Russian version, minus the noodles, called Shorpo, can often be found
Oromo This is not usually found in restaurants, but a Kyrgyz
family may serve you it. It can be prepared with meat, or as a vegetarian
dish. Potatoes, onions and carrots are shredded and spread onto a mat of
rolled out pastry, which is then rolled into roulette and steamed in a
special pan called a kazgun (In Kyrgyz «oromo» means «roulette»).
Ashlan-foo a spicy dish made with cold noodles, jelly, vinegar
and eggs.
Bliny (a Russian dish), pancakes, rolled and filled with meat,
tvorak (a sort of cottage cheese), or jam.
Pirojki flat dough filled with meat, potatoes, cabbage or sometimes
nothing at all sold by street sellers.
Manty steamed dumplings filled with shredded meat (or sometimes
pumpkins), usually eaten with the fingers. A word of warning watch out
for the hot, liquid fat that can come squirting out from them. Also, sometimes
the meat can be fatty, or gristle.
Pelmeni a from of Russian ravioli which can be served in a
bouillon (or broth) or without, and usually smetana (sour cream).
Samsa Samsy (in the plural) are baked meat dumplings often
cooked in a tandyr (clay oven). Once again, be warned of the heat and fatty
juice that squirts out when you bite into one.
Boorsoks pieces of dough fried in oil;
Chuchuk fat salami made of mutton;
Shorpo - very traditional Kyrgyz soup;
Chak-chak sweat meal of fried dough with honey.
Bread In Bishkek there is a wide range of breads available.
Outside the cities, the flat, round lepeshka is found almost everywhere.
Fresh, warm, straight from the tandyr (a clay oven) it is particularly
pleasant. At meals it is usually broken, not cut with a knife and never
placed on the table upside down.
Meat The most common form of meat is used in Kyrgyz cuisine
is mutton. Sheep have a high place in Kyrgyz culture and the Kyrgyz use
every part of the animal for something. Sheep meat tends to be more fatty
than that from other animals, and so it should be no surprise that fatty
meat is often considered to be the best. (There is even a Kyrgyz saying
«Cheap mutton has little fat»). In some households and festivals
the Sheep«s head, (the eyes in particular), may be offered to an
honoured guest. Horsemeat is also highly revered and for special occasions
and funerals it is common for a horse to be slaughtered and the cooked
and presented to guests. Only young mares are used which have been fed
on Alpine grasses, which are thought to give the meat a particularly good
flavour. A great favourite in the countryside, (but also available in Bishkek)
is chuchuk a sort of sausage made from horsemeat. Beef is also found,
but less often. The Kyrgyz rarely uses chicken chickens being found among
settled peoples rather than nomads. Pork is not used by the Kyrgyz, but
can be found in Chinese and Russian restaurants.
Fish Fresh fish are caught in the lakes such as Son-Kul and
Issyk Kul. Popular are the dried and smoked fish that are sold by the roadside
near Issyk-Kul.
Fruit and Vegetables most of the produce is grown locally
and seasonal and there is a wide variety although recently more exotic
fruits and vegetables are imported and available in the markets. You can
encounter fresh produce, cooked, dried and preserved (jams/pickles etc.)
Nuts are also very popular.
Honey is very popular and in the mountains the traveller can
come across a solitary trailer, or a cluster of five or six gathered together,
packed with and surrounded by beehives. The owner will happily sell a litre
of fresh mountain honey (but you should have your own container if possible).
Drinks
Tea and Coffee Tea (black or green) is common and comes in
various forms and is usually made strong and mixed with hot water when
served. It may well be served in a bowl rather than a cup. Coffee is more
likely to be instant served, without milk.
Arak (Kyrgyz for Vodka) the most common and popular form of
hard alcohol watch out for Samogonka home made vodka. When drinking
vodka watch your hosts Russians tend to drain their glasses «down
in one» and so do many Kyrgyz but a lot of Kyrgyz only drink
half the glass.
Cognac Kyrgyz Cognac is the local form of brandy. It comes
in various qualities some of which are quite good.
Champagne dryish and crisp when well cooled.
Wine Kyrgyzstan does grow grapes and does produce wine. Most
of it fairly sweet and not to the visitors«taste.
Beer many brands of imported beers are now available and a
German-Kyrgyz joint venture produces Steinbrau, a German type beer brewed
locally in Bishkek. Most local brands are cheaper but do not keep well
and need to be drunken ?????? «fresh» (i. e. within three
days).
Kumys (or koumiss) fermented mares milk, is an acquired
taste. Kumys is sold from the roadside throughout the country in the summer
but it is best from the herders themselves in more remote mountain regions
such as around Son-Kul. Refusing a drink of kumys can cause offence. The
milk is poured into a vessel made from a cleaned sheep»s skin, which
has been smoked by burning pine branches to give the drink a special smell
and taste and it is beaten periodically with a special stick called a «bishkek».
The traditional way of making koumiss is for mare«s milk to be stored
in animal skins (chinach), which has been cleaned and smoked over a fire
of pine branches to give the drink a special smell and taste. One third
of yesterday»s milk is mixed with new milk and allowed to ferment
in the warmth of the yurt. It is then churned, beaten with a wooden stick
(a bishkek) and becomes alcoholic before turning into lactic acid. In the
1840"s, Russian doctors discovered that kumys had curative properties and
used it for treating tuberculosis, anaemia, chronic lung diseases and gynecological
and skin diseases. Some 16 special sanatoria were established which treated
patients with lots of fresh air, exercise and koumiss. They served a number
of famous people including members of the imperial family, Leo Tolstoy,
Maxim Gorky, and even a minor British Member of Parliament who made the
journey to Central Asia especially to undergo the treatment. Unfortunately,
traditional kumys can be stored for only up to three days, so production
is limited to the milking period of mares. To solve this problem, a method
of producing pasteurized kumys was developed allowing treatment all year
round, and even export. A special facility has recently started for the
production of pasteurized kumys in the Naryn region.
Bozo an alcoholic drink made from boiled, fermented millet
grains resembling beer.
Maksym (Shoro is a brand name which is sold from Barrels
on Bishkek streets) is a wheat based drink that Kyrgyz like to drink
in the summer.
Airan (also known as Kefir) is a milk drink that resembles
drinking yogurt.
Water In Bishkek the tap water is generally safe to drink,
but if you have a delicate stomach, or are concerned then boil the water.
Bottled mineral water is available throughout the country but tends to
be carbonated and a little salty, and can be an acquired taste.
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